Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sandown Crags | |||||
3a | The Ramp
A substandard and unclean route | 5m | |||
6a+ | DJ Face the Music
Ascend the steep wall situated between The Ramp and Central Route using delicate and technical climbing techniques. The arete can also be climbed at a similar level of difficulty or marginally more challenging. | 5m | |||
3a | ★ Central Route
Scale the crack with a slabby surface located in the middle of the buttress. | 5m | |||
4a | Usurer
This climb follows the juggy bulges located at the right-hand side of a lengthy, fragmented, and slightly sloping wall. | 5m | |||
2 | Slab Left
| 5m | |||
4 | Slab Traverse
A entertaining challenge that involves traversing from 'Slab Right' to 'Slab Left' without using any handholds. FA: | ||||
5a | Part-Time DJ
Climb The Ramp while staying in line with the slab on DJ Face the Music. Traverse towards the right to finish the climb around the right side of the arete. | 5m | |||
4a | Rampette Direct
The direct start to Rampette, which comes in from the right | 5m | |||
6a | Theosaur
To the right Rampette Direct, as a result of clearance work, there is a vertical face. Ascend this face and execute a mantel to reach the ledge above. | 5m | |||
3c | Latte Bar
Climb the corner and twin cracks that converge at the top, located just to the left of the short bulging wall. | 5m | |||
4a | ★ Wizard
Ascend the staircase until you reach and pass over a minor protrusion or roof. | 5m | |||
3a | Wizard's Little Apprentice
This route entails ascending a series of steps located on the left-hand side of the buttress. | 5m | |||
4a | ★ Graham
A simple and direct ascent up the middle of the buttress. | 5m | |||
4b | Golden Graham's
The final manoeuvrer involves a challenging transition over the roof. | 5m | |||
3a | Hen of the Woods
A brief and straightforward route | 5m | |||
3a | Artist's Conk
Another route that is both brief in length and straightforward | 5m | |||
3a | Trembling Merulius
Similar to the previous routes, this one is also relatively easy, but the top-out can be muddy or dirty. | 5m | |||
3a | Jack O'Lantern
The climbing on this route is somewhat disconnected, and includes ascending to a holly tree. | 5m | |||
3a | Mushrooms
Ascend the groove | 5m | |||
3b | Stepped Slab
Ascend to the platform and finish with relative ease above it. | 5m | |||
3a | Mezzanine
Shift leftwards to finish | 5m | |||
3c | Urban Slab
Ascend the slab and with a holly tree exit | 5m | |||
Green Wall | |||||
{FR} 4a | Trees are green
Choose the left-hand path on the damp and recessed wall, which is situated just to the right of a few tree routes. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6c+ | Photinia
Ascend the brief featureless wall on the left-hand side of the recessed buttress until you reach a slanting crack that leads to the large tree. | 7m | |||
{FR} 7a | ★ Teddy Bear's Picnic
Ascend to the break and make a forceful reach for the indistinct vertical cracks situated above, then finish by ascending the substantially better upper half. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6c+ | New Hat
Upon completing a featureless initial section, ascend the groove. Be aware that this section of the climb may be prone to seepage from the soil located above it. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6b | ★ Central Groove
Ascend the upper groove after another blank initial section. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Dynamo
To reach the break, you can either make a long reach or execute a dyno. The upper half of the climb is generally more satisfying. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6a | Usurper
This route features a lower section that is considered more manageable, which leads to the upper groove. | 7m | |||
{FR} 7a | Special Invitation
Ascend the middle of the wall between Teddy Bear's Picnic and Central Groove by jumping to start, similar to New Hat. Proceed upward and to the left using a small incut hold and climb the wall located to the left of New Hat to complete the route in an awkward manner. | 7m | |||
{FR} 7a | The Violent Sprat
Ascend the wall located 3 meters to the right of Usurper without utilising the arete. | 7m | |||
Kukri Wall | |||||
5b | Penknife
Ascend the left-hand side of the overgrown Kukri Wall buttress via a mantleshelf and a brief crack. | 6m | |||
4b | ★ Breadknife Buttress
Although not fully independent until you move to the left higher up, the best climbing on the wall can be found on this route. Finish the climb with a somewhat rounded and slightly awkward top-out. | 6m | |||
3c | ★ Kukri Wall
Follow the central groove using holds that are currently in decent condition but may be somewhat dirty. It is anticipated that the condition of the holds will improve with time. | 6m | |||
5a | Kukri Wall Direct
To start, position yourself to the right of the holly tree and then ascend the right-hand side of the buttress directly. | 6m | |||
5a | Kukri Wall Tree
This route on the right-hand side is very similar to Kukri Wall Direct. Despite the name, do not utilise the tree during the climb. | 6m | |||
Eyelet Wall | |||||
3a | Mossy Itch
Situated to the left of the way up and down to Eyelet Wall, and it is concealed by a holly tree. To reach the base of the Hidden Holly Tree Buttress, approach the problem from above and descend a sandy gully. The route involves manteling the first break and then delicately ascending the nose to the top of the mossy pinnacle. | 4m | |||
6b | Laraletme
Ascend the brief crack and wall that is positioned to the left of the arête. | 5m | |||
6b | ★ Ringlet
Begin by confronting the lower bulge and then proceed to complete the ascent by climbing up the left arête. | 5m | |||
7a | ★★ Twiglet
Climb up towards the roof and search for the undercut hold on the left side, then complete the climb with a challenging finish over the bulging roof. | 5m | |||
4b | ★★ Eyelet
This route is a miniature classic. It involves steeply ascending over the bulge, which is significantly more technical than it may initially appear. | 5m | |||
6c | ★ Singlet
Ascend the wall adjacent to Dave's route using a layback technique to reach a mantel shelf, then continue onto an intriguing overhanging top-out to finish | 5m | |||
4b | Tight Chimney Slab
Begin by climbing the chimney until you reach the noticeable break, then traverse in a rightward direction before ascending the middle of the shallow slab | 5m | |||
4 | ★★ Ejector
A delightful short route that ascends the curving groove. It is possible to prolong the climb by ascending the block above if desired. | 5m | |||
5+ | Shytte
Right of Sand Piper is a dirty and blunt arête that appropriately lives up to its name. | 5m | |||
Root Routes | |||||
{FR} 6c | ★ Trip of the Psychedelic Tortoise
Trace the crack until you reach a gradually inclining top-out. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6b | ★★ Carrera
You can begin the climb from the lower left side of the slab and ascend in a zig-zag pattern. Alternatively, you can start by climbing the crack located to the left of the slab. | 6m | |||
{FR} 4b | ★★ Open Chimney
This is a delightful chimney climb that can be approached using multiple methods. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6a | ★ Cottonsocks Traverse
Commencing at the base of the chimney, ascend gradually towards the upper right until you reach the top break. Complete the climb by ascending the shallow groove located in the center of the wall, or slightly to the right. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Root Route 3
Ascend the bulging rib situated just to the right of Open Chimney. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6a+ | ★ Root Route 2.5
Ascend the left-hand side of the wall directly, situated just to the right of the nose, using the two low and rounded oval pockets. Finish to the left of the shallow groove. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Root Route 2
Utilise a sloper to gain purchase within the conspicuous, deep, circular hole. Climb upward more effortlessly to the top break and then traverse left to complete the climb by ascending the shallow groove. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6a+ | Root Route 1.5
Commence the climb two meters to the right of the circular pocket and ascend directly up the wall. | 7m | |||
{FR} 4a | ★★★ Root Route 1
Ascend the right-hand side of the wall until it is possible to move leftward along the ascending shelves. Follow these shelves until reaching the indistinct groove situated at the centre of the upper face, then conclude by ascending this groove. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6c | The Land of Green Ginger
Climb the brief wall located above a boulder and execute a challenging mantel to reach the top. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Flake News
Ascend the left-hand variation of Carrera, but instead of following the original line, finish in a more self-reliant manner by going directly over the bulges located above. | 6m | |||
Blackeye Wall | |||||
{FR} 6b | ★★ Blackeye Wall
Ascend the crack using a layback technique, finger jam, or other methods that suit your style. Once you reach the break, move leftwards and finish with a challenging mantel to reach the top. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Blackeye Wall Direct
Finish directly on Blackeye Wall rather than veering leftwards | 6m | |||
{FR} 7a | Fugazi
A challenging route that requires avoiding contact with adjacent routes. The climb goes up the face to a slot and continues beyond it. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6b | Serendipity
Face climb without using the cracks on either side. | 7m | |||
{FR} 3a | A Small Bit of Black
A short and straightforward crack climb that passes by a tree. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6c | ★ Slanting Crack
Climb a series of flakes up to a break and then finishing with relative ease. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Counterfeit
A powerful face climb on small holds, without using the crack. | 6m | |||
{FR} 5b | ★★ Right-hand Crack
A very short off-width that is particularly attractive to climbers who are familiar with the techniques involved. | 6m | |||
{FR} 7b | ★ Soft Rock
Use minuscule hand and foot holds to scale the face, without utilising the surrounding arete or crack. | 6m | |||
Fang Wall | |||||
{FR} 6b | Cucumber Madness
Ascend the brief, narrow ridge on a section of soft rock with a challenging finish. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6b | Smear Campaign
Ascend the initial section, which may be dirty, and then finish by climbing up the shallow crack. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6c | Wisdom
Ascend the smooth wall at the lower section until reaching the break, and then finish by ascending the crack. The grade of the climb will be influenced by the climber's height. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6c | Fang
If the climber is not tall enough, they may need to stack up some pads to reach the break, which will make the climb easier. Alternatively, they can try to jump to reach the break, allowing them to attempt the bulge above. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Incisor
Jump to reach the break and then ascend the crack above by clambering. The climb will likely improve with practice over time. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6b | Stranger than Friction
Ascend to the break and then face the challenge of the difficult finish. | 6m | |||
{FR} 4a | Steph
Ascend the brief and unclean disjointed crack. | 6m | |||
{FR} 4c | Happy New Wanderers
Ascends the left edge of the buttress, which has recently been cleaned. | 6m | |||
{FR} 5b | Weeping Slab
The section on the left-hand side of the slab, which is frequently wet. | 4m | |||
{FR} 4b | Gollum
Ascend the right side of the climb, which can often be covered in green vegetation. | 4m | |||
Rotten Stump Wall | |||||
7a | Corridor of Uncertainty
Ascend this route, which has no visible features or holds and presents a serious challenge due to the very small holds available. | 7m | |||
6b | Sticky Wicket
Climb up the crack and navigate to the greasy finish. Make use of the holds present on either side of the crack. | 7m | |||
7a | Ritual
Located between Sticky Wicket and Rotten Stump Wall and requires avoiding holds on both. Use the pockets on the face to gain the break, and then stand up on the postbox slot. Finally, use the tiny sloping crimps to rock up for the top. FA: Jamie Dugdale, 23 Feb 2019 | 7m | |||
6b+ | Rotten Stump Wall
This route requires long moves between holds and slopers that are often greasy and unpleasant to grip. | 7m | |||
6c | Rotten Stump Arete
Ascend the edge of the rock face to connect with Sliding Corner. | 7m | |||
6b | ★★ Sliding Corner
Begin by using the chimney to establish yourself on the left wall. From there, traverse around the corner with balance and proceed directly up the left side of the arete using regular but awkward holds. Finally, exit with a delicate mantle shelf. This climb can be very rewarding and enjoyable for those who attempt it. | 8m | |||
6c | ★ Awkward Crack
The narrow crack can be found on the wall of the gully located immediately to the right of Sliding Corner. | 8m | |||
3a | Easy Chimney
This is an easy chimney that is popular with children. However, it is important to note that children should still walk off and not be lowered down. | 8m | |||
3a | Fingernail Crack
This adjacent crack to the chimney offers a fun laybacking challenge and eventually merges with Easy Chimney. | 8m | |||
6b+ | ★★ Gwains' Awete
Located between Fingernail Crack and Dinosaurus on the right-hand side of the slab, this climb follows the right arete. A toe jam at the base of the arete is permitted before making your way straight up to the vegetated top-out. | 8m | |||
Panther's Wall Area | |||||
{FR} 6a | Dinosaurus
Climb out of the gully and continue up the middle of the wall. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6c | Dinosaurus Direct
Ascend the arete directly and join with Dinosaurus. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Smiliodon
Ascend the crack and then traverse right to finish up the arete. | 6m | |||
{FR} 6c | Smiliodon Direct
Complete Smiliodon using the direct finish | 6m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Old Dog; New Ticks
Ascend the right-hand side of the arête towards the right of Smiliodon, commencing from a layback flake and executing challenging maneuvers onto the slab, culminating in a straightforward finish over the top bulge. | 4m | |||
{FR} 6c | Inimitability
There is a technical route situated to the left of the corner. | ||||
{FR} 6b+ | Out of The Blue
To the left-hand side of the wall, situated just to the right of Beech Crack, there is a route with an extremely bouldery start. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Blue Peter
Climb the arete, starting on the left side, but using either side as needed. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6b | ★ Tomcat
Climb the left end of the wall that provides the right side to a broad gully. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Panther's Wall
Climb the wall left of the arete, using obvious under-cuts above half way. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6a+ | ★ Snout
Climb the rounded arete at the end of the wall. Harder at the start, finishes easily. | 7m | |||
{FR} 3c | ★ Snout Crack
Climb the chimney. Facing left is suggested. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6c | Guy's Problem
Climb the sharp arete right of Snout Crack. | 7m | |||
{FR} 6b | ★ Mantelpiece
Short and sweet, with a lovely mantel into the niche, and that's all there is to it. | 5m | |||
{FR} 3a | Beech Corner
Climb the corner with the obvious dead beech stump, going left of the stump. Yes, the stump gets in the way. | 5m |